Surprise! Surprise! once again, not a well known name from history - Etta Lemon, her story is captured brilliantly by Tessa Boase in her new book Etta Lemon: The Woman Who Saved the Birds.
The most important thing to understand is she did this impossible act in 1890's! Yes, more than 130 years ago.
Even today in 2021, most people don't give a crap about animals leave alone birds. I can only imagine the struggles she went through to make a change. People killed trillions of birds for sheer stupidly of wearing feathers on their hats! Never underestimate the stupidly of sapiens.
So if you ever think and feel alone amongst carnivorous and self-centered sapiens then get your motivations from people such as Etta Lemon and keep going from one moment to another and eventually time will help you.
Ma'am thank you. Thank you for everything you did and you deeds have not been forgotten and never will be.
Treehugger: What is your background? What drew you to the story of Etta Lemon?
Tessa Boase: I’m an Oxford English Lit grad, an investigative journalist, and a social historian who loves the thrill of the chase. I’d heard a rumor that Victorian women were behind Britain’s biggest conservation charity, and my curiosity was immediately piqued. Could this be true? And if so, why hadn’t I heard of them? When I told the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (RSPB) I wanted to write their early story, they became very secretive. I wouldn’t find enough material, the librarian told me—and certainly no photographs. The early archive was lost during the London Blitz.
Here was an irresistible challenge. Two years of painstaking research revealed four distinct personalities, all women. Emily Williamson of Manchester was the gentle, compassionate founder who invited her friends to tea in 1889 and got them to sign a pledge to Wear No Feathers. Eliza Phillips was their great communicator, whose pamphlets pulled no punches. Winifred, Duchess of Portland, animal rights advocate, and vegetarian, was RSPB president to her death in 1954.
And then there was Honorary Secretary Etta Lemon, a woman (and a name) to be reckoned with. This was the personality that most intrigued me. To her colleagues, she was "The Dragon," to the public, "Mother of the Birds." Determined, single-minded, and "brusque" of manner, here was an eco heroine with a rhino hide. Hard-hitting campaigns need women like Etta Lemon, then and today.
Can you describe what women's hat fashion was like while Lemon was battling against feather use?
Etta described the latest "murderous millinery" in every RSPB annual report. Here’s one from 1891: a hat made in Paris and bought in London for three shillings. "The chief feature is the lovely little head of some insect-eating bird, split in two, each half stuck aloft on thin skewers." The bird’s tail sat in the middle of the split head, the wings on either side, while a tuft of the buff plumes of the squacco heron (a small, short-necked, toffee-colored bird from southern Europe) completed the "monstrosity."
As hats grew in diameter, fashions got more extreme. Milliners heaped their creations not just with feathers but wings, tails, several birds, whole birds, and half birds (owl heads were all the rage in the 1890s). Exotic species, known as "novelties," were particularly prized—but if you couldn’t afford a scarlet-rumped trogon, you could buy a dyed starling.
What obstacles did she face as a conservationist at that time?
So many obstacles! In 1889, women couldn’t even book a meeting hall. The ornithological societies of the day were male-only coteries. Emily Williamson founded her all-female society in anger at being barred from the all-male British Ornithologists’ Union (BOU). Luxuriantly bearded Victorians felt deeply proprietorial about nature, and there was much patronizing sneering. The title "Society for the Protection of Birds" was dismissed as "very ambitious" by one British Museum naturalist, "for a band of ladies who do nothing but abstain from personal iniquity in the matter of bonnets." Yet women are good at networking. By 1899, the (R)SPB had 26,000 members of both sexes and 152 branches throughout the British Empire. In 1904 it gained that all-important "R": the Royal Charter.
The British public was utterly ignorant of birdlife at the start of the campaign. Re-educating people to watch birds, rather than shoot or wear them, was an uphill struggle. The end goal was legislation, and of course, women had no voice in Britain’s Parliament until 1921. Yet Etta Lemon was an impressive speaker, earning the admiration of male journalists at international bird conferences.
What impact was fashion having on various bird species?
By the 1880s, as explorers and shipping routes carved up the world, a fabulous array of exotic bird skins flooded the plumage market. Brightly colored birds such as parrots, toucans, orioles, and hummingbirds were particularly prized. Weekly auctions in London, the hub of the world’s plumage market, would routinely sell single lots containing perhaps 4,000 tanagers, or 5,000 hummingbirds.
By 1914, hundreds of species risked extinction. The plumed paradise birds, the great and little egret, blue-throated and amethyst hummingbirds, the bright green Carolina parakeet, the Toco toucan, the lyre bird, the silver pheasant, the velvet bird, the tanager, the resplendent trogon ... the list went on.
In Britain, the great crested grebe was driven to near extinction, hunted for its head feathers, which stand out like a halo when breeding. Sub-Antarctic beaches were photographed heaped with albatross corpses, shot to satisfy the fashion for a single, long plume on a hat.
What were some of the tactics used to dissuade women from wearing feathers?
Etta Lemon was militant from an early age, calling out any women wearing "murderous millinery" in her London church. In 1903, when an ounce of egret feathers was worth twice as much as an ounce of gold, the RSPB local secretaries were sent on a mission. Armed with visceral pamphlets and a magnifying glass, all 152 of them were to infiltrate high street stores, surprise shoppers, question shop girls, cross-examine head milliners, and lecture shop managers. The term "environmental activism" didn’t exist. Instead, they called it the Frontal Attack.
In 1911, when most of the world’s egret colonies had been shot out, men bearing gruesome placards showing the life (and bloody death) of the egret were hired to walk the West End streets during the summer sales, and again that Christmas. Women consumers fond of wearing the aigrette or "osprey" were shocked into consciousness. This marked the campaign’s turning point.
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What is Lemon's legacy?
Etta taught us to feel compassion for birds. We shudder at the sight of those macabre bird hats today, thanks to her efforts. The RSPB would not have become the conservation giant it is today, had it not been for Etta’s vision, tirelessness, determination, and clarity of focus. I found it astonishing she hadn’t been remembered by the charity she built for half a century, 1889-1939.
Happily, since my book’s publication, Etta Lemon and co-founder Emily Williamson are being propelled into the spotlight. Etta’s portrait has been restored and rehung in pride of place at The Lodge, RSPB HQ. There is to be an ‘Etta Lemon’ hide at RSPB Dungeness, the Kent coastline where she was born.
Meanwhile, the campaign for a statue of Emily Williamson gathers pace. Four bronze maquettes were unveiled on the Plumage Act centenary, 1 July 2021 in Emily’s former garden, now a public park in Manchester. (Vote for your favorite.)
The tool Emma used to make the change is "Moral Frontal Attack". I am sorry to say, people don't change with knowledge nor ethics but if you can target their morality and shame them - they do change.